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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.